John Day Fossil Beds NM |
First I should mention the rain, which in Portland wouldn't
merit a sentence. But we were not in Portland we were east in the desert, sun
country- John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. Only there was no sun, well
briefly on the first day, but that’s not really worth a longer mention. But for
the most part we spent the trip dodging bullets of rain- significant, impossibly, wet,
punctuated showers that heightened our sense of experience.
It was a blessing of sorts.
On the first morning I (we) slept in...
blissfully unaware of
the possibility of the creek rising near the dispersed campsite we were staying
at. As I lay there, drifting through a scattering of timpani slumbers, slowly
thoughts of slot canyons, flash flood warnings, and all sorts of other safety
flotsam and jetsam rose to the surface of my mind and I soon began to calculate
how fast I could pack up my gear and leave. In my head I would be like John
Wayne herding
cattle through the storm, epic, big, muddy, and super sexy. Except I am not John Wayne. I am bald, without
a drawl, and I don’t think there would be anything romantic about a dripping
tent that would inspire a dramatic, sweeping, boom of a soundtrack, much less
the smell of hundreds of wet cattle being driven through mud and poop. Yeah.
There would be shivering.
That much I could guarantee. I motivated faster than I
expected and with careful flips and twists to the fold of the fabric, I kept
the tent and my stuff mostly dry. I was impressed, years of being grilled by my
friend on how to, why we, and when to paid off. Then I realized I was by myself
in this effort. My camping cohorts had yet to rise. Dammit. I was ready to tackle the day. Make
breakfast. Or do something. Anything but sit here in the consistent
anti-dramatic rain. So I drew circles of ink in the passenger seat of the car
and became
noticing before how the leaves
stick up from the twisted branches at 90 degree angles, like miniature telsa
coils- an exercise in patience, meditation, and boredom. My droid did not get
any service. So the multi-tasking crack of my life had been taken away,
brutally.
Later after an awkward cup of coffee and sausage platter cooked
at one of the viewpoints we hiked the boardwalks of the different formations.
We were lucky.
If it rained the painted hills
changed to darker, richer colors as the clay soaked up the water, in some cases
causing the rivers to run the green of the minerals in the soil. The sky,
instead of being a mediocre blue, congressed in piles of storm clouds enhancing
the sagebrush twist with a spice of haunt and eerie that gave permission to
become aware of the gone-already-has-been-age the permeates the place. John Day
Fossil Beds National Monument is host to several different beds, quarry’s, and
assemblages of fossils from various epochs
in the past. At the Thomas Condon
Paleontology Center visitors can walk through these different periods of time
and see the reconstructed creatures like bear dogs or nimvarids and browse the
multitude of fossils. It also provides a reprieve from the sun or for us, from
the rain.
But.
I am a cloud watcher.
I went outside anyway.
In the sun/ rain I could
watch the storm pass over the features and shadow their colorful crevices or
illuminate their grassier lowlands. While the place feels old, which might be
because we are instructed to feel that way, or as humans we have an innate
sense of the deep time, either way, watching the rain move through gave me a glimpse
at the constant force of destruction. I was not interested in the rebirth
cycle, not here, but
more in how the land wrinkled under the direction of the
clouds. How it revealed under the direction of those clouds. How the wind
ushered those clouds and time with it through. It’s difficult not to reflect on
time or where we stand in the midst of the time’s storm. But it’s not what I am
trying to say. Perhaps the rain is a catalyst to understanding. Perhaps it’s because in the sun we move through this
land so purposely, while in the rain our discomfort forces us to slow down and
look, experience, run, hide, comment, frustrate, feel?
So- a blessing of sorts.
Not the trip any of us expected.
Go east to find sun,
we were told.
Hmphh.